This is a new series of instruments that combine the body designs of the Oakhurst Series with the more vintage or traditional style of headstock design that we have used on the S Series guitars and J Series basses. Although the S and J Series feature 22 and 21-fret fingerboards respectively, the Oakhurst S and J Series will have 24 and 23-fret fingerboards.

The articles that follow describe the construnction process for each of these instruments.

This page documents a new Fretless Bass project, started on February 4, 2005. The having completed and shipped the Fretless bass for Michael-Scott, I decided that it wouldn't hurt to have a fretless bass in my collection. Here are the specifications that I plan to built this one to:

  • The body is made from a two-piece blank of light-weight Swamp Ash, obtained from Global Wood Source in San Jose California.
  • The neck is a beautiful piece of highly flamed hard rock maple that I bought on Ebay about 2 years ago. I had cut the headstock profile a long time ago, so it'll need a little modification so it'll have the Cyr Guitars headstock.
  • The fingerboard is the second of the three I cut from the same piece of birdseye maple that I used to make Michael-Scott's fingerboard.
  • The fingerboard will have abalone shell position markers and side dots, and black or walnut inlays for the fretlines. The fingerboard will overhang at the heel, and will have 22 or 23 fretlines--I'm not sure which.
  • The neck will have a double-action truss rod
  • The electronics consist of a 2-band active EQ from WD Music, plus a P/J pickup set made by Ronnie Sweet of Sweetsounds LTD.
  • The hardware will be all chrome or nickel plated. The bridge will be a string-thought type from WD Music.
  • The tuning machines will be a set of Schaller vintage Fender copies

The Neck

Now for some pictures of the neck and body as construction begins. The neck was begun almost two years go, at the same time that I started the neck for the 4-string Spalted Maple Jazz bass that I finished in the summer of 2004. Both necks were cut from the same piece of flamed hard rock maple. Here are three pictures of the neck after the truss rod was installed, and the fingerboard glued in place:

The truss rod is installed to adjust at the heel, and I will be routing a cavity into the front of the bass so that it can be adjusted with the neck installed to the body. The truss rod is installed with a u-channel of thick paper under it, and a strip of masking tape above it, so that it will not rattle inside the neck.

Once the glue has dried thoroughly, I will use the bandsaw to trim the neck to shape, but slightly oversized. The neck will be trimmed to the final dimensions (1-7/16" or 36.5mm wide at the nut, 2-1/2" or 63.5mm wide at the 22nd fretline). The nut dimension is slightly narrower than a Fender Jazz Bass neck, which is 1-1/2 inches or 38.1mm--but what can I say--I like narrow necks!

 

This picture shows the headstock and upper end of the fingerboard. Note the Birdseye and flame figure in the two pieces of wood that make up this neck. The headstock still needs to be shaved down to final thickness.

 

This picture shows the heel end of the fingerboard, and the slots that I have cut for the fretline inlays. The slots are .023" wide, cut with a special blade I bought from Stewart-MacDonald last year. The slots are approximately 3/16" deep, and will be filled with some maple-dyed-black veneer I got from Woodcraft.

This is the back side of the headstock, showing the rough cuts I made with the bandsaw to start the profiling of the neck. In the past I've used the oscillating drum sander to shape the neck, but these bandsaw cuts will dramatically speed up the process. 

The heel of the neck from the back:

I spent most of this evening working on the neck for the fretless bass. Here's the headstock, which has been trimmed down to slightly under 5/8" thick, and the edges have been sanded more or less smooth on the drum sander and belt/disk sander. The holes for the tuning machines have been cut on the drill press with an 11/16" Forstner bit.

The neck has been rough-sanded to a medium C profile, as shown in the next two pictures. In addition, I have inlaid the 1/4" diameter Paua Abalone position markers in the fingerboard, and black plastic 3/32" diameter side marker dots have been installed on the edge of the fingerboard.

The neck from the back side. You can get an idea of the wonderful flame figure in this neck:

This picture shows the installation of the fretlines, made from Indian Rosewood. I sliced these pieces of veneer from a fingerboard blank, on the bandsaw. They're a little too thick for the fret slots, so I used a Dremel Tool with a 1/2" diameter sanding drum to sand them down so they would fit in the slots. 

The neck is now completed, except for applying the lacquer finish and installing a nut. I've spent a couple of hours each evening over the last three days sanding the fingerboard true, fine-tuning the neck profile, and doing the final sanding. Interesting development: the neck now has a pretty slender "Vintage V" profile, which is what I prefer. Very nice. Also, the neck has been thoroughly sanded, first with 100-grit, then 150-grit, and finally with 220-grit. It feels almost silky now. Next I'll use 320-grit to get the fingerboard extra smooth, and to polish the abalone inlays.

     

     

I've been applying coat after coat of lacquer to the neck, and finally got the point where it's time to put the logo and other graphics onto the headstock. This picture shows the two necks I'm working on right now, with the decals applied:

The guitar neck at the bottom is for the guitar that's being built along with this bass.

 
   
   
   
   

The Body

The body is cut from a blank that I made up last summer, and cut to the Oakhurst shape a couple of months ago. It was originally cut with the idea that I would build a 5-string from it, but since this will be a 4-string, the area around the neck pocket will have to be reworked a little for the narrower neck (2-1/2" wide instead of 2/5/8"). So far, the body is a full 2 inches thick, which is too much. There are two possibilities for how I will deal with this problem:

  • I will be scheduling some time with Hank Mauel to use his thickness sander to get it down to a more manageable 1/5/8" thick.
  • Or I can shape the body with my belt & drum sanders to taper it thinner as you get farther away from the center line, and leave it 2" thick at the centerline.

Another possibility I'm considering is the apply a bookmatched spalted or quilted maple top to this body. This would require planing or sanding the body down even further than indicated in the first option above.

I went with Plan B and sliced the body down the middle, planed it to 1-11/16 inches thick, and glued it back together. This is the top:

This is the back side of the body after I glued it back together:

Now I get to show off the new router. It's a Craftsman Commercial, 2-1/4 HP Peak, with two bases--one is a conventional fixed base, and the other (shown here) is a plunge router base. In this picture, I've just completed routing the rounding of the body edges with a 1/2" corner bit:

 

Another picture of the body after the edge rounding was completed. Note that the neck pocket has been cut as well:

Another picture of the neck pocket:

This is the body after the next stage: cutting the cavities for the pickups. This bass (as I said before) will have a P/J set of pickups made by Ronnie Sweet of Sweetsounds Ltd.

 

This pictures the control cavity, cut with the new template set I got last month on Ebay. This set enables me to cut a recessed area for the cover plate so that it's "inlaid" into the body. Very nice. 

Another shot of the top of the body, showing the line I've sketched onto it for the forearm contour. Next step: use the drum sander to carve out that forearm contour.

 

   

This guitar uses the Oakhurst guitar body shape developed in 2003, but with a more traditional headstock shape with 6-in-line tuning machines. The body for the first one (the prototype) will be the body originally built for the Oakhurst 12-string guitar, since that body was replaced by a new one last year. Here's the body we'll be using for this one:

But I have formulated a plan: In March 2004 I bought a piece of flamed Koa from a supplier in Honolulu shortly before we returned to California from the consulting gig I did there. When I got home, I sliced it into a bookmatched pair of pieces approximately 5/16" thick by 6-5/8" by 30" long (approximately 13-1/4" total width. Since then I've been looking for a project for this bookmatched set. Well, here it is. So the plan is this:

  • Plane the top 5/16" off the top of this body
  • Laminate the Koa bookmatched set to the top of the body
  • Recut the routs for the pickups and neck pocket
  • Redrill the mounting holes for the bridge and controls

Should be fun!

Here's the body after I planed the top 5/16" off the top. I just fed it thru the DeWalt thickness planer until I'd taken the amount I wanted off the top, to prepare it for the Koa bookmatched top I made up for it:

 

And this is the bookmatched Koa top that will be glued to it: 

This is the body after I glued the top in place, then routed the edges to 3/8" radius, and routed out the neck pocket and pickup cavities:

Another shot of the area where the pickup cavities and neck pocket were routed out:

 

Here are some pictures of the neck I'm building for this project: 

 

 

 

 

This is the body with several coats of lacquer. The finish really brings out the lustre of the koa and makes the wood's flame figure stand out. 

About three months later. The guitar has been assembled, and this is the result:

 The headstock with the gold-finish hardware installed:

 A closeup of the body. The beauty of the koa really stands out in this picture!

 

All Pictures and Text (c) Copyright 2006 by Stephen Cyr
This page last updated June 26, 2006